Oh For a Humble Plastic Aussie Veggie Peeler!

Just finished preparing my warming, nourishing soup as it tries very hard to snow out there, and once again wishing I had remembered to pack a packet of veggie peelers. You know the ones? usually come in packets of 3, with brightly coloured handles so you can find them in the crowded cutlery drawer, found in supermarkets and are very cheap.
Every time I am travelling I remember my promise to myself on the last trip to pack some, but then you just forget all about it until it comes to veggie peeling time. I have tried all sorts of peelers in lots of countries, including the fancy, expensive types in Australia, but have never found one to match them.
The Argentinian one I have now only works when you peel away from yourself and only peels small bits at a time so usually I end up with tiny pieces of peel all over the kitchen. The Aussie ones work well both way, and I like to peel towards myself. Using an Aussie plastic peeler, if you are very talented you can peel a whole potato or an apple in one long strip. Absolutely no chance with this peeler. Sometimes I resort to a knife, but they are pretty hopeless also, and half the potato or carrot ends up in the rubbish, or with I end up with serrated fingers where I miss.
I always pack the coffee plunger, just can't find good coffee here to put in it. Believe it all not, ALL the ground coffee has added sugar. I bought some back from Ecuador but am rationing that.
I will have to put a couple of packets of peelers in my case, you just never know when you will need a good peeler

Festival Internaciónal de Ushuaia

Festival Internaciónal de Ushuaia
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

The 3rd International Classical Music Festival en Del Fin Del Mundo, and what a delight it has been. The 3 concerts I attended were glorious and the setting magnificent. The crowning achievement of the Festival was the presence of the Berlin Symphony Orchestra with it's director, an Argentinian, who brought the audience to their feet at every performance. It was also wonderful to see the people of Ushuaia in another light, many in the best gear and "beautiful", although the concerts weren't cheap and out of range for many. There were free concerts for Fueguinos, which were packed out. I had a lesson on all aspects of Classical music on a return taxi ride. My taxista gave me a complete rundown on composers, orchestras and musicians in a 15 minute journey home. Not sure my Spanish was really up to it, but it didn't matter.
Combined with the 1st Bienal, a Contemporary Art Festival,(click on the photo to check the Bienal set) the town has been pretty lively for the last few weeks. All culminates tonight with a fireworks spectacular, weather permitting! It's been snowing out there.

A Good Airline Story

This one amazed me, and after having a go at Aerolineas, just have to add this one. This time with TAME, an Ecuadorian airline.
One the trip from Quito to the Galapagos, a trip of several hours ish!, after the flurry of providing the in-flight refreshment, the staff asked a passenger to press the call button. Turned out to be a very tall American jazz pianist sitting just in front of me. Several minutes later all the flight attendants came up from the rear of the plane with - believe it or not- a birthday cake, with which they duly presented him and then sang Happy Birthday. He was in total shock, as were the majority of the passengers and had no idea just how it all happened as he was travelling solo. I can't imagine just where they produced the cake from - they did cut it, I think, but as far as I know no-one had any. But it certainly was a personal touch!

Out in the Cold

Odd One Out
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Those that have read Perrocide in Ushuaia and my emails, will wonder at this post, but I actually feel very sorry for this guy. All morning it has rained and intermittently snowed - so it's not very warm out there. Three dogs live in this backyard???? and the other two are occupying the only places of shelter, one kennel and the shed. Neither will let this guy anywhere near them and he has wandered hopelessly back and forth trying to get in. He is actually not all that steady on his feet, I don't know if it's the weight of the sodden coat or he's not well and much as these animals drive me crazy, I hate to see an animal suffer. This one is only a follower of the top dog, who is the one occupying the shed - naturally. May have to talk to the owner again.

Bienal Ushuaia 2007

Bienal Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

This is art; the recorded message inside the car wasn't playing very well, so I am not sure just what it explained, but I am sure there is an explanation. Ushuaia is having it's first Bienal, a Contemporary Art Festival and there are some fascinating works of art which I have been enjoying. Won't say I understand them all, maybe it's a language thing? But then contemporary art has never really been my thing. Check out some of the other works of art, just click on the picture.

The Ambush

The Ambush
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

I saw it coming, as the newcomer strutted into the middle of the road and the challengers came from all sides. Unfortunately I was a little slow with the camera and only got the 2 shots as the attack came and went and they all headed in my direction. I forgot about the photos and headed for safety, but it was all over except for the licking of the wounds and the crowing or barking of the victors`

Casa del Lago

Galápagos March 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

If you are looking for something different, and the Galápagos Islands are certainly that, then a stay at Casa del Lago will complete the experience. Such a change from hotels, Elena and Enrique provide a quirky, comfortable place from which to enjoy Puerto Ayora. They have constructed their home, the Cafe Cultural and 2 apartments from re-cycled materials providing a charming refuge. My apartment had it's own terrace overlooking the garden, and the other apartment had access to a lovely garden setting. All types of materials have been used in the construction giving it a charm all of it's own.
As hosts they are most accommodating and Elena's experience as a travel guide, and her wonderful English ensure a her guests information and assistance to enjoy this amazing paradise.
They are also talented musicians and organise many cultural and musical events for Puerto Ayora. The Cafe has great vegetarian food and the best home made ice cream and the only REAL coffee I found on the island. If you can't stay there, at least visit for the coffee and ice-cream and the welcome.
For more photos just click on the photo.
You can find them at: www.galapagoscultural.com

Ripped Off In Quito

Quito March 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

A beautiful old city, bustling with people, life and constant activity and unfortunately the ever present thieves. Not that this isn't true of just about every city in the world, it's just that I have never been the recipient before! Been a couple of attempts, but this was the only successful one and my lovely new camera, capable of those underwater shots in the Galapagos went to the local market for re-sale. The frustrating thing about it all, is that the 1GB card had lots of great shots after a very busy morning people watching, and I guess some one local was tourist watching waiting for just the right moment. As I raised the camera for another shot it was snatched from my hands and both the guy and camera disappeared off down the street, right past the lovely young policeman that I reported it to. He could even describe the thief and tell me he had something in his hand!
Later in the day I wandered around the local market - floors and floors of goods of questionable origin and it makes you wonder what one does with a camera, phone, computer etc that comes box less, without instructions, charger, cables etc, etc. I didn't see my camera, a bit early for that , but I am sure it was there within hours if not days. I wonder if I would have bought it back? Now what do I do with all the cables, spare battery, chargers etc etc? as you have probably noticed, absolutely none of them are interchangeable, even within the same brand and it seems criminal to throw them into yet more landfill. Maybe I should have sold them at the market.

La Lucha No Termino The Falklands/Malvinas

Ushuaia Autumn 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

It is fact that this forlorn archipelago was the last of the great discoveries in the West to be settled by Europeans, although it is uncertain who first saw the islands. The French colonized them, but the Spanish asserted territorial proximity rights from mainland south America. The British were there after the French moved out and the Argentinians did have a garrison there which the British displaced in 1833 and that was that as far as the Brits were concerned. The islanders consider themselves British to the core even though the Argentines have continued to claim the rights to the Islands since the Brtish moved in. "Las Malvinas fueron, son y serán Argentinas"- the Malvinas were, are and will be Argentinian is the catch cry that all Argentinians are raised with and that nationalism, pride and honour are still very strong in the claim and as the posters that appeared all over town proclaim - "la lucha no termino" -the struggle has not finished.

The Joys of Aerolineas Argentinas

Airline travel can provide a test of patience and involve long waits, but I think that Aerolineas Argentina must hold the record for flight delays, strikes and challenges in general . After returning to Ushuaia with Aerolineas I remember why I choose to fly with other airlines whenever it is possible!
The trip started in Quito, when LAN informed me there was no way my luggage could be sent through to Buenos Aires and would go to Santiago, from where I would have to collect it and recheck it. Fair enough, except that one’s luggage is outside, through immigration and I am inside in the Transit area. To exit and collect it means immigration, a reciprocal tax of $56 and an exit tax of $16 – not an option! Easy they say, go to the Aerolineas counter and get them to collect the luggage, except there is no Aerolineas desk and in the early hours of the morning it’s not easy to find anyone to help. Bless the lovely young lady in the Diners Club lounge, she spent some time on the telephone chasing down the luggage through Aerolineas. I wasn’t the only one, there was a couple from Guatemala with the same challenge. Finally, about 30 minutes before the flight departure we were handed our boarding passes with, we hoped, appropriate luggage collection tags. We were all very pleased to see our luggage on the carousel in Buenos Aires.
That was followed by an expensive Remis journey across Buenos Aires to the Domestic Terminal for the scheduled departure of my flight to Ushuaia. Might as well have walked! 8 hours later the flight departed Buenos Aires with a plane full of rather disgruntled travellers. All the flights on Saturday afternoon displayed the red Demorado – delayed notice, on the board and during the course of the day several were cancelled with no explanation. Several flights scheduled for later than mine departed for Ushuaia and still no explanation. Finally when we boarded they told us that seating was free – as the plane had been changed, which, as you can imagine caused even more problems as it was literally a case of first on best seats! I was lucky I was on early, after being squashed onto the bus last and so amongst the first off – so I had a front seat with all that lovely leg room. But couples were separated and there were lots of unhappy people.
We arrived in Uhuaia at 2.30 am, my luggage was almost last off and so I had a long wait for a taxi – in the cold, and after Galapagos it was cold! Finally made it back to my flat at 3.30 after 2 nights with little sleep.
Don’t think I will travel Aerolineas again in a hurry! I have to return to Buenos Aires with Aerolineas, but think I will ditch the flight to Santiago to connect for the return to Oz and buy a single with LAN – they are much more reliable!

The Dance of the Boobies

Galápagos March 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

What a wonderful spectacle and so very comical, with the large blue feet being an integral part of the performance. The feet are lifted one at a time in a solemn ritualised dance and resemble a clown with those extra large shoes. The pair then “skypoint”, which involves pointing their tails and beaks upwards and half opening their wings and honking or whistling. Honking for the female and whistling for the male. The whole performance can continue for quite a while and is wonderful to watch..
Watching them fishing is yet another fantastic spectacle. They cruise quite high above the sea and often commence their dive from as high as 10 – 15 metres. As they dive to accelerate they fold their wings and hit the water like an arrow or a kamikaze pilot

Ushuaia Summer 2007????

Ushuaia Summer 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

It's only March and already we have had a full day of snow in the town. The temperature didn't get above 1C and the snowflakes were seriously big! I am still new enough to a cold and snow environment to find it enchanting. I wonder how long that will last?
The surrounding mountains were covered with a layer of snow reaching down into town. But 2 days later the temperature was back in the teens and the snow has all but disappeared.
Summer in Ushuaia!

Extra Terrestrials?

Ushuaia Summer 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Just loved these clouds? as they hovered over the town for what seemed like a very long time. Were they landing, photographing or just checking?

! Un Desastre !

A total disaster, I am distraught, devastated, gutted and every other disaster word you can think of. My iPod, the original trusted one with ALL my music has crashed and I can't restore it. Here in Ushuaia at least. Whether it is possible eventually with the dock, I don't know, but here no, ¡ and I have another 7 months ! The computer recognises it on the USB cable, but won't restore it without using the Firewire cable and of course using the firewire cable the computer doesn't recognise it. I think I am going to cry - seriously cry. It is my constant companion on my walks to the school. I am blessed and thank all there is that I still have most of the music on my computer - the rest is scattered all over OZ - will be tracking down those CD's when I get back. Technology is great until it fails. I have just bought some DVDs to back up all the photos and the music I have on the computer, as it has been chucking some pretty interesting turns lately.
I am going to go off and cry now, excuse me.

¡Un Beso!

Everyone, yes absolutely everyone here in Argentina greets each other with un beso o un besito, such a lovely custom, but not one we westerners are always all that comfortable with. Today I went to the dentist with a serious crown problem and the first thing the dentist does is darme un beso, a kiss on the cheek. Now my dentist in Oz and I are on cheek kissing terms, but we have known each other for years, but here in Argentina, perfect strangers, on introduction exchange , besos, right cheek to right cheek. And then again on every meeting and departure. And that includes guy to guy. I have seen a few western guys a little spooked by that one! It's lovely, it means you get to actually have contact with other people on a very regular basis, so different to our "no touch society", that is getting worse not better.
And if you are not in actual physical contact other forms of contact also include un beso: via the telephone, email or mail. ¡Just delightful!

Un beso Barb

¿A New Business?

Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

I have decided I am not going to earn a fortune, or even pay my way with English Conversation classes, there seems to be a slight problem with commitment, and I am not surprised with the hours everyone works. But that's ok I can live with that. So have started a new business - las bufandas or scarves. They only take me about an hour or so and don't need needles - just my hands - very easy, and all the great yarns are coming into the shops now and even better, are cheap- so work has commenced. Don't expect to make my fortune at this either, but it will keep me out of trouble.

Estoy en el Cielo (in heaven)

El Bambú Comida Vegetariana Ushuaia
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Finally it's all in place and not only can I buy take away vegetarian delights, but also Tofu to cook at home. I am in heaven. The vegetarian food is wonderful, but I don't have a microwave and it doesn't reheat well. so now I have the best of both worlds. Who would have thought it in Ushuaia? Gracias a dios. Again I am Blessed.

Las Mujeres de Las Fotos

Isla Chiloé
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Just loved these two. We first made acquaintance while waiting in the Travel Agent. Both were beautifully, if not a little oddly, dressed. That is compared to we in jeans and t-shirts, and were excitedly planning and booking their trips. Sure enough the next day we stopped outside their hotel and onto the bus they came, and off we all went to Isla Chiloé. They were from very north of Chile in the desert regions and were so excited with the tree, flowers and greenery, but what entertained me most were the "photo opportunities" The cameras or the video were certainly kept busy. I think before the bus even moved off at least a dozen photos were taken. Each posed in front of every possible item of interest - on the bus, on the ferry, in front of houses, churches, shops, trees, flowers, and they weren't just casual shots, they were all carefully posed, with the hair and make up just right. I had to wonder just how much they actually saw, as most time was spent photographing or assessing the photos just taken. And when they weren't photographing, one was on her mobile telling all her friends where they were or they were sleeping.
Loved 'em!

Tren del Sur

Puerto Montt Chile 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

If you are ever travelling through Puerto Montt Chile, this is a great place to stay. A Boutique Hostal, beautifully constructed and containing many of the old materials from the railway and station. Being a lover of wood, it was great to see it so extensively used throughout. El dueno, Mario, is delightful and welcomes all his guest with a great deal of enthusiasm. Not too large, it offers a range of accommodations, with breakfast and many other services, including WIFI for we computer tragics. Give it a go. www.trendelsur.cl

The Blessings of an Arco Iris

Summer Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

To see a rainbow, you first have to have rain, and that we have had plenty of. Then momentarily, comes the sun and a glorious arco iris, and those we have had lots of lately also. But the blessing of the rainbow is that when the rain comes down, los perros remain under cover, and the silence is as golden as the rainbow is brilliant.

I love rainbows.

¡Posibilidad de Perrocide! ¡Muy Pronto!

Los Perros Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

There is really only one draw back to living in mi departamento. I can live with the hole in the bathroom roof, covered for now with cardboard, as my neighbour is on holidays, so no drips or cold air. I can live within the small space and with the multitude of power lines and ugly backyards spoiling magnificent views of the surrounding mountains, but I am having trouble living with this lot. And right on cue, they have started yet again. Not only are there these 3, but in the last week at least 5 cachorros have emerged to join the group. So far they have not learnt to bark, just whimper all night, but I am sure it won't take long.
Now if you look through the pictures, you will see what an attractive backyard it is,- not! And I can just imagine just how full of nasties it is - thank goodness it never gets that hot here. I imagine the smell could be horrendous.
Then there are the photos of the front of the house - where the small children play and the family entertains in view of all in the street. Last weekend, el dueno of the property was watching los niños playing out in the street, after having let one of the dogs out to join him. Naturally enough, the two remaining maniacs were going absolutely crazy, as they all do when there are family in the front of the house. So as I walked past I asked el dueno if there was any possibility of keeping them quiet. He seemed to think that was a totally unreasonable question, and told that they didn't bark at night, so what was my problem? other than the fact that one can't think, concentrate, hear any talking or my music - I really couldn't answer that one. Didn't matter what I said - in my best polite Spanish, he just shrugged his shoulders and said he wasn't going to fight about it or even discuss it.
So where do I go from here? Not all that sure on that one but I will certainly be weighing the options, especially if los cachorros join in the cacophony. Perrocide or suicide? Maybe I will just have to search for another place to live. Any suggestions???????

Politics del fin del mundo

Had a laugh this morning reading the reports on the Nordkapp, the cruise ship that ran aground or hit an iceberg, not quite sure which yet, that have been in the local papers. Firstly, the Sydney Morning Herald seemed to be the first to have the story, all the local papers quoted the story yesterday. Now it seems that El comandante del Área Naval Austral, called a press conference to tell all that everything was in hand, but that was only after he read all about it in the local Diario. Apparently the Norwegians had not notified the local boys or asked for help, and as Argentina claims the Antarctic Peninsula as part of their territory, I think there are a few noses out of joint. And probably just to make matters worse he has had to notify the Chilean navy as they have a boat in the area in the event that the boat needs help getting back to Ushuaia. ¡The Argentinians and Chileans don't exactly get on! The passengers have all been offloaded onto a sister ship, which must be horrendously crowded and are heading back here. I wish them luck as it is absolutely blowing a gale today, and by the reports they will be fare and square in the middle of the Drake. I can't imagine anything worse! There will be some stories to come out of this one.

¿Verdaderamente Pobre? A City of Contrasts

Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Situated in one of 35 barrios, or suburbs, this is just one example of the squatter housing that exists in the city. This is situated quite centrally and like all the other barrios of illegal housing, is supplied with power, water and gas by the local authorities!
I visited one of the squatter barrios just before new year with a Dutch photographer doing an article on migration from the very bottom of the Americas to the very top in Alaska. He believed that Barrio Escondido was populated by mainly Bolivians and Peruvians and wanted to find out just what brought them to Ushuaia.
It turned out to be a very interesting visit, but we met no Bolivians or Peruvians. The barrio was mainly populated by Argentines and the housing ranged from shacks constructed of anything salvageable, most of which is packing materials supplied by the big companies, to beautifully constructed homes. There were no roads or services, particularly sanitary services, but there was power, gas and some water supplied by the authorities.
The only problem with this scenario is that the majority of the people squatting there, and you have to remember that to do this they were cutting down native trees on the outskirts of the National Park and just setting up, were fully employed, and, ironically many in the local government. The homes contained televisions, computers and most of the mod cons. Unfortunately I didn't have my camera with me that day, so missed photos.
As you might imagine these barrios create some very interesting discussions! With those who work, pay taxes and save to buy a house and land a little miffed by the squatters. The squatters argue that the tourist trade has pushed up the rental costs and that they can't possibly pay the prices, but if I can find an apartment and pay local prices I am sure they can. Though I agree that apartments are few and far between it certainly seems easy enough to just go out chop down a few trees and start building.

It Finally Happened

A cruise ship ran aground in Antarctica. It was just a matter of time, as bigger boats are heading down every year, although this was a regular visitor. It is one of the big ones with 300 people on board, luckily there were no injuries and they managed move safely into refuge, but???

La Verdulería: Ushuaia 2007

La Verdulería :Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

To my great delight, just before Christmas a new shop opened opposite mi casa, and best of all it was una Verdulería - a veggie shop. Being a vegetarian you can imagine my delight in a town of Asados - the local version of our barbie, the most popular being local lamb.Every weekend the suburbs disappear under a haze of smoke and the smell of cooking meat permeates all. Next door to La Verdulería está La Carnicería or butcher shop and on the other side is the La Quesería or cheese shop - so I have it all very close, not that I have visited the Carnicería! There are also 2 supermercados within 2 blocks. Don't need a car at all.
Today is fresh produce day, so all looks beautiful. Veggies here are usually pretty tired - a little like me. But with summer here there is some great fresh fruit and veggies, so, so far I am doin' ok