Ushuaia Summer 2007????

Ushuaia Summer 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

It's only March and already we have had a full day of snow in the town. The temperature didn't get above 1C and the snowflakes were seriously big! I am still new enough to a cold and snow environment to find it enchanting. I wonder how long that will last?
The surrounding mountains were covered with a layer of snow reaching down into town. But 2 days later the temperature was back in the teens and the snow has all but disappeared.
Summer in Ushuaia!

Extra Terrestrials?

Ushuaia Summer 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Just loved these clouds? as they hovered over the town for what seemed like a very long time. Were they landing, photographing or just checking?

! Un Desastre !

A total disaster, I am distraught, devastated, gutted and every other disaster word you can think of. My iPod, the original trusted one with ALL my music has crashed and I can't restore it. Here in Ushuaia at least. Whether it is possible eventually with the dock, I don't know, but here no, ¡ and I have another 7 months ! The computer recognises it on the USB cable, but won't restore it without using the Firewire cable and of course using the firewire cable the computer doesn't recognise it. I think I am going to cry - seriously cry. It is my constant companion on my walks to the school. I am blessed and thank all there is that I still have most of the music on my computer - the rest is scattered all over OZ - will be tracking down those CD's when I get back. Technology is great until it fails. I have just bought some DVDs to back up all the photos and the music I have on the computer, as it has been chucking some pretty interesting turns lately.
I am going to go off and cry now, excuse me.

¡Un Beso!

Everyone, yes absolutely everyone here in Argentina greets each other with un beso o un besito, such a lovely custom, but not one we westerners are always all that comfortable with. Today I went to the dentist with a serious crown problem and the first thing the dentist does is darme un beso, a kiss on the cheek. Now my dentist in Oz and I are on cheek kissing terms, but we have known each other for years, but here in Argentina, perfect strangers, on introduction exchange , besos, right cheek to right cheek. And then again on every meeting and departure. And that includes guy to guy. I have seen a few western guys a little spooked by that one! It's lovely, it means you get to actually have contact with other people on a very regular basis, so different to our "no touch society", that is getting worse not better.
And if you are not in actual physical contact other forms of contact also include un beso: via the telephone, email or mail. ¡Just delightful!

Un beso Barb

¿A New Business?

Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

I have decided I am not going to earn a fortune, or even pay my way with English Conversation classes, there seems to be a slight problem with commitment, and I am not surprised with the hours everyone works. But that's ok I can live with that. So have started a new business - las bufandas or scarves. They only take me about an hour or so and don't need needles - just my hands - very easy, and all the great yarns are coming into the shops now and even better, are cheap- so work has commenced. Don't expect to make my fortune at this either, but it will keep me out of trouble.

Estoy en el Cielo (in heaven)

El Bambú Comida Vegetariana Ushuaia
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Finally it's all in place and not only can I buy take away vegetarian delights, but also Tofu to cook at home. I am in heaven. The vegetarian food is wonderful, but I don't have a microwave and it doesn't reheat well. so now I have the best of both worlds. Who would have thought it in Ushuaia? Gracias a dios. Again I am Blessed.

Las Mujeres de Las Fotos

Isla Chiloé
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Just loved these two. We first made acquaintance while waiting in the Travel Agent. Both were beautifully, if not a little oddly, dressed. That is compared to we in jeans and t-shirts, and were excitedly planning and booking their trips. Sure enough the next day we stopped outside their hotel and onto the bus they came, and off we all went to Isla Chiloé. They were from very north of Chile in the desert regions and were so excited with the tree, flowers and greenery, but what entertained me most were the "photo opportunities" The cameras or the video were certainly kept busy. I think before the bus even moved off at least a dozen photos were taken. Each posed in front of every possible item of interest - on the bus, on the ferry, in front of houses, churches, shops, trees, flowers, and they weren't just casual shots, they were all carefully posed, with the hair and make up just right. I had to wonder just how much they actually saw, as most time was spent photographing or assessing the photos just taken. And when they weren't photographing, one was on her mobile telling all her friends where they were or they were sleeping.
Loved 'em!

Tren del Sur

Puerto Montt Chile 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

If you are ever travelling through Puerto Montt Chile, this is a great place to stay. A Boutique Hostal, beautifully constructed and containing many of the old materials from the railway and station. Being a lover of wood, it was great to see it so extensively used throughout. El dueno, Mario, is delightful and welcomes all his guest with a great deal of enthusiasm. Not too large, it offers a range of accommodations, with breakfast and many other services, including WIFI for we computer tragics. Give it a go. www.trendelsur.cl

The Blessings of an Arco Iris

Summer Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

To see a rainbow, you first have to have rain, and that we have had plenty of. Then momentarily, comes the sun and a glorious arco iris, and those we have had lots of lately also. But the blessing of the rainbow is that when the rain comes down, los perros remain under cover, and the silence is as golden as the rainbow is brilliant.

I love rainbows.

¡Posibilidad de Perrocide! ¡Muy Pronto!

Los Perros Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

There is really only one draw back to living in mi departamento. I can live with the hole in the bathroom roof, covered for now with cardboard, as my neighbour is on holidays, so no drips or cold air. I can live within the small space and with the multitude of power lines and ugly backyards spoiling magnificent views of the surrounding mountains, but I am having trouble living with this lot. And right on cue, they have started yet again. Not only are there these 3, but in the last week at least 5 cachorros have emerged to join the group. So far they have not learnt to bark, just whimper all night, but I am sure it won't take long.
Now if you look through the pictures, you will see what an attractive backyard it is,- not! And I can just imagine just how full of nasties it is - thank goodness it never gets that hot here. I imagine the smell could be horrendous.
Then there are the photos of the front of the house - where the small children play and the family entertains in view of all in the street. Last weekend, el dueno of the property was watching los niños playing out in the street, after having let one of the dogs out to join him. Naturally enough, the two remaining maniacs were going absolutely crazy, as they all do when there are family in the front of the house. So as I walked past I asked el dueno if there was any possibility of keeping them quiet. He seemed to think that was a totally unreasonable question, and told that they didn't bark at night, so what was my problem? other than the fact that one can't think, concentrate, hear any talking or my music - I really couldn't answer that one. Didn't matter what I said - in my best polite Spanish, he just shrugged his shoulders and said he wasn't going to fight about it or even discuss it.
So where do I go from here? Not all that sure on that one but I will certainly be weighing the options, especially if los cachorros join in the cacophony. Perrocide or suicide? Maybe I will just have to search for another place to live. Any suggestions???????

Politics del fin del mundo

Had a laugh this morning reading the reports on the Nordkapp, the cruise ship that ran aground or hit an iceberg, not quite sure which yet, that have been in the local papers. Firstly, the Sydney Morning Herald seemed to be the first to have the story, all the local papers quoted the story yesterday. Now it seems that El comandante del Área Naval Austral, called a press conference to tell all that everything was in hand, but that was only after he read all about it in the local Diario. Apparently the Norwegians had not notified the local boys or asked for help, and as Argentina claims the Antarctic Peninsula as part of their territory, I think there are a few noses out of joint. And probably just to make matters worse he has had to notify the Chilean navy as they have a boat in the area in the event that the boat needs help getting back to Ushuaia. ¡The Argentinians and Chileans don't exactly get on! The passengers have all been offloaded onto a sister ship, which must be horrendously crowded and are heading back here. I wish them luck as it is absolutely blowing a gale today, and by the reports they will be fare and square in the middle of the Drake. I can't imagine anything worse! There will be some stories to come out of this one.

¿Verdaderamente Pobre? A City of Contrasts

Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Situated in one of 35 barrios, or suburbs, this is just one example of the squatter housing that exists in the city. This is situated quite centrally and like all the other barrios of illegal housing, is supplied with power, water and gas by the local authorities!
I visited one of the squatter barrios just before new year with a Dutch photographer doing an article on migration from the very bottom of the Americas to the very top in Alaska. He believed that Barrio Escondido was populated by mainly Bolivians and Peruvians and wanted to find out just what brought them to Ushuaia.
It turned out to be a very interesting visit, but we met no Bolivians or Peruvians. The barrio was mainly populated by Argentines and the housing ranged from shacks constructed of anything salvageable, most of which is packing materials supplied by the big companies, to beautifully constructed homes. There were no roads or services, particularly sanitary services, but there was power, gas and some water supplied by the authorities.
The only problem with this scenario is that the majority of the people squatting there, and you have to remember that to do this they were cutting down native trees on the outskirts of the National Park and just setting up, were fully employed, and, ironically many in the local government. The homes contained televisions, computers and most of the mod cons. Unfortunately I didn't have my camera with me that day, so missed photos.
As you might imagine these barrios create some very interesting discussions! With those who work, pay taxes and save to buy a house and land a little miffed by the squatters. The squatters argue that the tourist trade has pushed up the rental costs and that they can't possibly pay the prices, but if I can find an apartment and pay local prices I am sure they can. Though I agree that apartments are few and far between it certainly seems easy enough to just go out chop down a few trees and start building.

It Finally Happened

A cruise ship ran aground in Antarctica. It was just a matter of time, as bigger boats are heading down every year, although this was a regular visitor. It is one of the big ones with 300 people on board, luckily there were no injuries and they managed move safely into refuge, but???

La Verdulería: Ushuaia 2007

La Verdulería :Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

To my great delight, just before Christmas a new shop opened opposite mi casa, and best of all it was una Verdulería - a veggie shop. Being a vegetarian you can imagine my delight in a town of Asados - the local version of our barbie, the most popular being local lamb.Every weekend the suburbs disappear under a haze of smoke and the smell of cooking meat permeates all. Next door to La Verdulería está La Carnicería or butcher shop and on the other side is the La Quesería or cheese shop - so I have it all very close, not that I have visited the Carnicería! There are also 2 supermercados within 2 blocks. Don't need a car at all.
Today is fresh produce day, so all looks beautiful. Veggies here are usually pretty tired - a little like me. But with summer here there is some great fresh fruit and veggies, so, so far I am doin' ok

Un Poco Triste

Tonight I'm a little sad! I get like this sometimes and it takes a little time to talk myself out of it. Why am I sad? well there are lots of reasons and lots have surfaced this week. I guess if I really think about it I am blessed that someone has entered my life a pressed some buttons - seriously pressed my buttons - and I have had to address some deeply hidden issues. Haven't enjoyed it but know it has resulted in a big shift. Thank you my friend!!!!!!
Think I will just take to my bed with a good book and wake up with a smile tomorrow. It looks like it's back to summer here in Ushuaia, so ya gotta smile!!!!

Queueing.......

Why is it that only we ex-colonials, or those that established the colonies, know how to queue - let alone spell it? Although in Australia queues are getting a little lost these days ....... .
Anyway here in Ushuaia, the queue doesn't exist but the number dispenser - often very well hidden - does. It usually takes we extranjeros at least a week to realise that you have to have a number, and hear your number called, before anyone will even make eye contact with you. So lesson is, whenever you enter a shop, 1st look for the number dispenser, usually red, take your number, check it out, practice the sound of the number many times and then listen carefully for your number to be called. It is very easy to miss the call and then you have to start all over again. Failing that, locate the spike containing used numbers and keep your eye on it till you're next. Then be prepared for some service.

Back to Normal

Just when I was about to - well thinking about - untaping all the windows after 5 days of an Ushuaian heatwave, we are back to normal. This morning it's raining.
All of Ushuaia has spent the last days, one of which reached 27C , it was actually hotter than Melbourne that day, enjoying the warmth. Clothes were skimpy, ice cream shops had long queues , families were picnicking in all the open spaces and some brave souls even took to the waters of the Beagle channel to cool down. It wasn't that hot! But from one who swam in Antarctica, I guess I can't comment. The sunsets were spectacular and the evenings balmy - a perfect summer interlude.
This morning the temperature has dropped, although we expect 14C, but there is no wind, just rain which looks like it might stay for a while. Guess I will be back on the colectivo (bus) to work today. The last few days the walk each way has been helping with the post cruise extra kilos, or at least I like to think so.

The Car Cleaner

Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Every day, my neighbour opposite drives the car onto the street and then out comes the duster and the top half of said auto gets a good clean. The only problem is that the lower half is absolutely filthy, as you can see. I have never seen him actually wash the car, so I shudder to think what the cloth does with the all the dust and dirt on the duco. It's extremely dusty here and mi casa always has lots of dust, and yes, I do clean it! Much as I hate housework.

Back to the car. Outside and inside get a quick polish up, then sometimes they go out, but often it sits outside the house for most of the day then goes back into the drive?
I have been trying to get a photo and finally managed this morning, usually he sees me with the camera and I have to take more pics of the mountains.

Qué calor!!!!

The heat wave continues and we are into day 3 and it looks like continuing. This must be the week to be in Ushuaia for summer. Today's expected top is 21C and tomorrow the forecast is for 24C. I haven't run around and untaped all the windows yet ( what do I mean all - the whole 2), but just might have to if it continues, it's a little hot in the bedroom with no cross current. The ice cream shops will be doing a roaring trade.

Summer in Ushuaia

DSCN5725.JPG
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Remember I said we had snow and gales from the West? That was three days ago, then in the last two days came the summer. I knew it was a mistake to tape up all the windows. Thank goodness the plasticine didn't work, and before I went to Antarctica I didn't get time to finish with the Duc Tape - plan B, and only blocked off the bedroom gales.
This weekend we have had the summer here in Ushuaia. Two days of above 20C and no wind or rain, and who knows? it might just continue for a few more days, but it is looking a little grey. At least I can still open some windows.
Let me introduce my sometime flat mate Larry, he went to Antarctica and we crossed over in the Beagle Channel. He came, I went- so because this is peak season and accommodation hard to find, he lived in my flat while I was away and for a while on my return. Yesterday we did the summer stroll along the waterfront. Now he has moved onto a flat before again heading to Antarctica. It gets some people that way!
Let's hope summer stays for a few days longer.

Life At the End of the World

La Casa Ushuaia
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Is different! there is no doubt about that, but I guess any place that is not home is! I keep wondering why it is I was not born with the stay up late gene, as nothing gets going here before 9.00pm at the earliest. I haven't worked out why Ushuaia, la cuidad del fin del mundo, follows Spanish tradition - late out of bed, late start to everything in the mornings, siesta for 4 hours or so in the afternoon( when just about everything shuts down) and dinner at 10.00pm! In Spain, in summer, I understand it, but in Ushuaia ? Here a heat wave is 22C, as it is today, wheras 2 days ago we had snow, a roaring gale and a top of 4C for the day - and remember this is summer! How will I ever survive winter?
Anyway, the reason for this post! The roaring gale several nights ago resulted in the loss of a good deal of the corrugated iron from the roof of the flats - thank goodness I am in the middle of the building. Late afternoon the Dante, son of el dueno and lots of workmen observed the damage from over the road for a considerable time and left. For hours nothing, then just as I was thinking of settling into bed with a good book, back came all the workmen, smoking lots of cigarettes and all trooped upstairs to start work - at 9.30 pm. For the next hour or so there was a great deal of hammering, drilling, yelling and the sound of roofing being dropped into the backyard. forget the good book and sleep. The job was finished the following day with just as much disruption to the peace - impossible with the dogs but all the noise arriba was louder than they were. Will I survive this????? Who knows, it's either "perrocide" or bloody good earplugs. I don't know that I will ever be a local.

Antardida otra vez

Antarctica 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

A trip very different to the last , but again an absolutely amazing experience. Once again I was blessed with smooth and tranquil crossings of the world's worst stretch of water - the Drake Pasage- except, that is, for the second night of the return journey. For 6 hours or so sleep was absolutely impossible and breakfast in the dining room a dancing and balancing act as the ship bucked and tossed in an angry sea. It was certainly an insight into the imfamous crossing, - for some 36 hours of hell, and the trips before ours experienced that hell on both crossings. I am blessed.
The weather this trip was not as kind and the choices of landings different, so it was possibly a truer picture of the highest, windiest and driest continent. We had it all, fog, snow, rain, wind and occassionally a little sun. The landings were fewer, but this time there were all the penguin chicks, where last time there were eggs, but the smell was the same! For those who have experienced a penguin rookery full of nesting birds, it is a smell that stays with you forever.
Check out the pics by clicking on the photo.

"Perrocide"

When you say the word you have to roll the rr to give it the right sound, and I am sure it is not even a word anyway, but here in Ushuaia it just might be soon!
Those who know me know that generally I love dogs, in some cases only like them but almost always tolerate them, but here in Sth America that could change. Here everyone seems to own a dog, at least one, but so far I have seen very few people actually interacting with them in any way. Granted they must feed them sometime, but I have never managed to see it happen and I have seen very few people actually walking with, talking to or playing with dogs at all. Makes you wonder why they have them?
My neighbours have 3 rather large ones in a rather small backyard and these guys spend a good deal of their time barking excessively loudly. Then they all attack the fence to stir up the rather large dog on the other side and all bark frenetically.The amazing thing about all this is nobody but me, it seems, takes the slightest bit of notice. I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that everyone here is born with a dog barking ignore gene in addition to the stay up late gene!
I did see someone in the yard with these 3 yesterday, he was replacing the part of the fence they had destroyed in their frenzied barking mode, and all the time he was there the 3 were at his side barking frenetically. He happily worked on completely ignoring them. Maybe everyone wears ear plugs all the time.
Anyway the upshot of all this is I just might be forced to commit perrocide before too much longer, or take up wearing ear plugs all the time.

Celtic Spirit

DSCN4998.JPG
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

10.00pm and on our way to dinner on an absolutely amazing yacht, it's the larger of the blue ones behind us. Round the world wanderer and heading to the Antarctic for several months.
Do these guys know how to party???/ Unfortunately absolutely all the evening's activities begin at the earliest at 10.00pm and that's when I am on the way into dreamland. We had all been invited to dinner on the boat by one of the students - and as usual it was a loooong night for some. I think I got home at a reasonable hour, but I'm not to sure about that! There was a bit of red wine around.
To see the photos click on the photo on the page

La Ciudad Del Fin Del Mundo: Ushuaia

Well, I'm back in Ushuaia, and after a month I am still wondering just what I had in mind. I seem to fluctuate between the very confident "she'll be right mate" to "oh xxxx what am I doing here?", but I'm here, my ticket is open until September sometime next year and I can always hop a plane a head back to the safety of my Casa Pequeña - or converted garage and be SAFE and most probably extremely bored.
It's mid summer here, as it is in Oz, but where they are sweltering and suffering extreme conditions, here we got very excited and broke out the skimpy clothes, well the locals did anyway, when the thermometer actually crept up to an almost record of 21 degrees. It was the topic of conversation everywhere that day, but then the weather always is wherever you are. Most days don't make it anywhere near that and we go though all the seasons in the one day.One has to head out with the layers and rain gear and I always seem to choose the wrong layers, but then that's normal for me. I have just spent a profitable half hour or so attempting to block some of the draughts that invade through my windows when the gale blows in from Chile in the West, as it does almost daily. The windows rattle and the cold wind roars through all the gaps around and in the frame. When it rains, as it does most days, the lower frame also fills with water! Anyway, thank goodness for my Primary Teacher training and plasticine - the thought hit in those early morning hours when I have nothing better to do than sleep, and off I rushed this morning, Christmas Eve and a Sunday to buy my plasticine, and yes the shops were open and yes some of the holes are blocked. I shall get down to some serious hole blocking in the next few days. Then we will probably suffer a heat wave (I wish) and I won't be able to open any windows.