Working Hours

The working hours here in Ushuaia fascinate me, as they reflect those of Spain or countries with hot climates where people take a "siesta" during the hottest part of the day. And Ushuaia, certainly does not have a hot climate.
Work commences in the morning anything between 8.00am, for businesses and Government Offices and 10.00am for retail shops and banks, post office, dentists etc. The shops close again anytime between 12.30 and 1.30, depending on the season and the shop. The banks stay open until 3.00 and many Government offices close at 12.00. The post office stays open, but the Customs man, who inspects every parcel is only available for a few hours, and now in winter only between 10am and 12.30. Outside these hours it is impossible to send parcels or collect those that require Customs inspection.
Then everyone disappears for a few hours, one of my neighbours comes home every day. Then later shops and businesses re-open anywhere between 3.00 and 5.00pm and remain open until 9.00 or 10.00pm, depending on the business, shop or service.
It seems so crazy in a city where in winter the daylight hours are quite short and the climate certainly not conducive to night life outside of a warm home. Who wants to buy clothes at 9.00pm when it's freezing outside? I know where I would rather be.

The Wonders of Water

Ushuaia Autumn 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Water is such a wonderful thing and has so many forms. A walk on a very frosty Autumn morning produced some fascinating sights, not the least of which were the puddles, usually noticed but not observed. This particular morning many of them were glorious in their diversity and structure.
I have learned to walk watching the path these days, not only for the ever present dog messages, the mud puddles and now the very dangerous ice, so I get to see things on the path. We have had some serious frost and after the rain the footpaths become skating rinks, and being a warm climate person I am totally unprepared. But just loved these puddles and their unique designs.

An Interesting Statistic.

For the first time in the history of humanity, at some time in the next 10 years, there will be more people over 65 than children younger than 5.............and while in undeveloped countries between now and 2030, the population over 65 will increase by 50%, it is expected that in developed countries the increase will be by 140%

La Nacion. Argentina 20/05/07

Lots of Baby Boomers out there.

Speaking of Cars.......

Ushuaia Autumn 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

......and road rules. I sometimes wonder if there are any/many. If you want to stop, it seems you just put on your hazard lights and stop. It could be double parked, on the corner like this delivery truck, or even in the middle of the road as taxis frequently do to pick up or drop off passengers. The hazard lights seem to be the trick. Occasionally there is a frantic blowing of horns, especially in peak hour, but most of the time everyone just drives around.

Even more fascinating, for me, is that after putting on the hazard lights and stopping, many drivers then get out and do what they need to do, leaving the car running, often with children in the car.... use an ATM, pay a bill, buy cigarettes, whatever. I often pass cars early in the day, left running outside houses, presumably to warm up, but with absloutely no-one in sight. Interesting.

I have yet to see an automatic car here, in fact in all my travels in South America I don't think I have seen one. They are apparently very expensive to buy and so the local industry produces only manual cars. On some of the hills in this town an automatic would certainly be of assistance, but they are all pretty good at handbrake starts - you would have to be! I also look at parking on the hills and hope they have good handbrakes.

Ushuaia Autumn/Winter Inevitability

Ushuaia Autumn 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

All the cars now look like this. One drive after my neighbour cleaned his car, not just the top half as usual, but the whole car, it took on the local appearance once again.
Now the streets are either covered in mud or covered in dust. On the dry days the mud dries to dust and the dust is everywhere. I couldn't believe that for a few days I had hayfever, but there was so much dust in the air I was sneezing. After the rain we have the mud, and that also is everywhere.
Standing too close to a corner is a clean clothes hazard, as the puddles are deceptively deep, and the drivers good at cutting corners. Even walking is a clean clothes hazard as the mud seems to migrate upwards, particurlarly up the back of the jeans.
Coming from what used to be a fanatically clean car country, now they can't afford to be, it's been a bit of a culture shock to see cars totally covered in mud. By the time I get back to OZ I will be prepared for the sight of dirty cars.

Flying High

Ushuaia Autumn 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Today I went flying and it was just magic.

The last few days have been very mild and so still, that it seemed like a good idea at the time, and so I went. There is an Aero Club here and they take flights over the city and the mountains.The decision was galvanised this morning when I saw the smoke from all the Asados( bar-b-ques) over the city, and more importantly from the downstairs neighbour, where los perros live. That signalled that the family would be sitting in the drive for most of the pm. enjoying a "peaceful" asado, with 2 1/2 dogs going ballistic a full 3 feet away. The 3rd dog is still pretty sick, so I don't think he can bark at the moment. So, decided that I had to go for my walk, so why not walk to the Aero Club and ask?

What a great decision! Decided to hang the expense and go for an hour. The day was just perfect, no wind, lots of sunshine and blue skies with just a few clouds. The flight took us up past Mt Olivia along the valley of Route 3 past Cero Castor - the ski fields and over the mountains to Lago Fagnano, the large inland lake. Inland is a lot more snow covered, with many of the rivers frozen already. With the mild weather a lot of the snow around the city has disappeared. It was very beautiful, and there are lots of high close to the summits. We flew back over the mountains, and along the coast to Harberton Estacion, where I went by road a few weeks ago, and the back up the Beagle Channel past Puerto Williams, which is the southernmost "town" - the Argentinians argue that it's not a city and therefore they still claim the southernmost city for Ushuaia - just more of the not so friendly rivalry that exists between Argentina and Chile.

As we came back up the centre of the Beagle the pilot asked if I wanted to fly the plane- ¡ What a question,! did I ever! So I flew the little plane back up the middle of the Beagle Channel. What a BUZZ!!!

Patient Posting

Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

I have become an expert in posting parcels from all over the world. That's because someone keeps adding rocks to my suitcase and I have to send them on to Oz, as on every weigh in my luggage is heavier, no matter how much I get rid of or post back.
Anyway, here in Ushuaia, it is a whole new experience. I would prefer to buy my box first, bring it home and pack it and then post it. Logical I would have thought, but here no, it's a little more complicated, as every parcel sent has to be inspected by the Aduana - Customs. So everyone arrives at the Correo with all their goodies to post, buys their box, or with their own in hand and waits for the lovely man to come and inspect. He flips through everything, books, the DVDs, inside shoes, clothing, etc whatever is being sent. It's a pretty cursory inspection and I'm not quite sure what he is looking for, but it's the same for everyone for parcels big and small. Then he leaves you to wrap, and for me supplies the papers to fill in to send OS. Those sending presents come armed with gift wrap, ribbon etc, and everyone has the obligatory brown paper, unless you buy a box, and the sticky tape. The post office resounds to the sound of tape being torn off the roll and stuck to boxes. At this stage it would be possible to include anything in the parcel as it's not checked again.
Then it's into the line to post your parcel, and this takes a while. There is only one man on the desk and he sort of fuddles around a lot of the time. Every parcel is weighed and measured, not exactly measured as he only has a small ruler, which he sort of quickly moves from place to place, except of course for mine, they are calculated to the last centimeter. I can't quite understand this bit because I buy my boxes from him, and I would have thought they were a standard size, but who am I to question?
I have actually managed to convince them to sell me boxes in advance in the promise that I will return in a day or two to post them. I bought two the other day, then walked over to the packing tables and, much to the horror of all, disassembled them. They are much easier to carry home flat. "Tourists" do strange things! But I know better than some of the locals who arrive with their boxes wrapped, sealed and ready to go and then have to pull them all apart for the inspection. Even had to lend my scissors to a guy today to get through the tape on his box.
But, in favour of the Argentinian Correo, two boxes I posted recently arrived on the doorstep in Oz almost before they left here. They only took a week, and that was with Anzac Day holiday, and the day lost travelling West. So there you go, the trip to Oz is almost quicker than my trip to the Post Office.

El Almacen: Tienda Generales Ushuaia

El Almacen: Tienda Generales Ushuaia
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

The Grocer Shop: brings back great memories for me, my dad was a grocer and had a little shop containing lots of the same things. It's now a café, but when the new owners opened the door they found all the stock still in place. There are lots of things you may recognise, I certainly do: the advertisements, the biscuit tins which used to contain loose biscuits you bought by the pound, the scales, the old cash register, the ladder that narrows at the top. Lots of wonderful nostalgia and also includes also a collection of old musical instruments, a gramophone, children's toys, tools, sewing machines, kerosene heaters and flat irons. It even includes the family photos that were left behind. Just wonderful.

Oh For a Humble Plastic Aussie Veggie Peeler!

Just finished preparing my warming, nourishing soup as it tries very hard to snow out there, and once again wishing I had remembered to pack a packet of veggie peelers. You know the ones? usually come in packets of 3, with brightly coloured handles so you can find them in the crowded cutlery drawer, found in supermarkets and are very cheap.
Every time I am travelling I remember my promise to myself on the last trip to pack some, but then you just forget all about it until it comes to veggie peeling time. I have tried all sorts of peelers in lots of countries, including the fancy, expensive types in Australia, but have never found one to match them.
The Argentinian one I have now only works when you peel away from yourself and only peels small bits at a time so usually I end up with tiny pieces of peel all over the kitchen. The Aussie ones work well both way, and I like to peel towards myself. Using an Aussie plastic peeler, if you are very talented you can peel a whole potato or an apple in one long strip. Absolutely no chance with this peeler. Sometimes I resort to a knife, but they are pretty hopeless also, and half the potato or carrot ends up in the rubbish, or with I end up with serrated fingers where I miss.
I always pack the coffee plunger, just can't find good coffee here to put in it. Believe it all not, ALL the ground coffee has added sugar. I bought some back from Ecuador but am rationing that.
I will have to put a couple of packets of peelers in my case, you just never know when you will need a good peeler

Festival Internaciónal de Ushuaia

Festival Internaciónal de Ushuaia
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

The 3rd International Classical Music Festival en Del Fin Del Mundo, and what a delight it has been. The 3 concerts I attended were glorious and the setting magnificent. The crowning achievement of the Festival was the presence of the Berlin Symphony Orchestra with it's director, an Argentinian, who brought the audience to their feet at every performance. It was also wonderful to see the people of Ushuaia in another light, many in the best gear and "beautiful", although the concerts weren't cheap and out of range for many. There were free concerts for Fueguinos, which were packed out. I had a lesson on all aspects of Classical music on a return taxi ride. My taxista gave me a complete rundown on composers, orchestras and musicians in a 15 minute journey home. Not sure my Spanish was really up to it, but it didn't matter.
Combined with the 1st Bienal, a Contemporary Art Festival,(click on the photo to check the Bienal set) the town has been pretty lively for the last few weeks. All culminates tonight with a fireworks spectacular, weather permitting! It's been snowing out there.

A Good Airline Story

This one amazed me, and after having a go at Aerolineas, just have to add this one. This time with TAME, an Ecuadorian airline.
One the trip from Quito to the Galapagos, a trip of several hours ish!, after the flurry of providing the in-flight refreshment, the staff asked a passenger to press the call button. Turned out to be a very tall American jazz pianist sitting just in front of me. Several minutes later all the flight attendants came up from the rear of the plane with - believe it or not- a birthday cake, with which they duly presented him and then sang Happy Birthday. He was in total shock, as were the majority of the passengers and had no idea just how it all happened as he was travelling solo. I can't imagine just where they produced the cake from - they did cut it, I think, but as far as I know no-one had any. But it certainly was a personal touch!

Out in the Cold

Odd One Out
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Those that have read Perrocide in Ushuaia and my emails, will wonder at this post, but I actually feel very sorry for this guy. All morning it has rained and intermittently snowed - so it's not very warm out there. Three dogs live in this backyard???? and the other two are occupying the only places of shelter, one kennel and the shed. Neither will let this guy anywhere near them and he has wandered hopelessly back and forth trying to get in. He is actually not all that steady on his feet, I don't know if it's the weight of the sodden coat or he's not well and much as these animals drive me crazy, I hate to see an animal suffer. This one is only a follower of the top dog, who is the one occupying the shed - naturally. May have to talk to the owner again.

Bienal Ushuaia 2007

Bienal Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

This is art; the recorded message inside the car wasn't playing very well, so I am not sure just what it explained, but I am sure there is an explanation. Ushuaia is having it's first Bienal, a Contemporary Art Festival and there are some fascinating works of art which I have been enjoying. Won't say I understand them all, maybe it's a language thing? But then contemporary art has never really been my thing. Check out some of the other works of art, just click on the picture.

The Ambush

The Ambush
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

I saw it coming, as the newcomer strutted into the middle of the road and the challengers came from all sides. Unfortunately I was a little slow with the camera and only got the 2 shots as the attack came and went and they all headed in my direction. I forgot about the photos and headed for safety, but it was all over except for the licking of the wounds and the crowing or barking of the victors`

Casa del Lago

Galápagos March 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

If you are looking for something different, and the Galápagos Islands are certainly that, then a stay at Casa del Lago will complete the experience. Such a change from hotels, Elena and Enrique provide a quirky, comfortable place from which to enjoy Puerto Ayora. They have constructed their home, the Cafe Cultural and 2 apartments from re-cycled materials providing a charming refuge. My apartment had it's own terrace overlooking the garden, and the other apartment had access to a lovely garden setting. All types of materials have been used in the construction giving it a charm all of it's own.
As hosts they are most accommodating and Elena's experience as a travel guide, and her wonderful English ensure a her guests information and assistance to enjoy this amazing paradise.
They are also talented musicians and organise many cultural and musical events for Puerto Ayora. The Cafe has great vegetarian food and the best home made ice cream and the only REAL coffee I found on the island. If you can't stay there, at least visit for the coffee and ice-cream and the welcome.
For more photos just click on the photo.
You can find them at: www.galapagoscultural.com

Ripped Off In Quito

Quito March 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

A beautiful old city, bustling with people, life and constant activity and unfortunately the ever present thieves. Not that this isn't true of just about every city in the world, it's just that I have never been the recipient before! Been a couple of attempts, but this was the only successful one and my lovely new camera, capable of those underwater shots in the Galapagos went to the local market for re-sale. The frustrating thing about it all, is that the 1GB card had lots of great shots after a very busy morning people watching, and I guess some one local was tourist watching waiting for just the right moment. As I raised the camera for another shot it was snatched from my hands and both the guy and camera disappeared off down the street, right past the lovely young policeman that I reported it to. He could even describe the thief and tell me he had something in his hand!
Later in the day I wandered around the local market - floors and floors of goods of questionable origin and it makes you wonder what one does with a camera, phone, computer etc that comes box less, without instructions, charger, cables etc, etc. I didn't see my camera, a bit early for that , but I am sure it was there within hours if not days. I wonder if I would have bought it back? Now what do I do with all the cables, spare battery, chargers etc etc? as you have probably noticed, absolutely none of them are interchangeable, even within the same brand and it seems criminal to throw them into yet more landfill. Maybe I should have sold them at the market.

La Lucha No Termino The Falklands/Malvinas

Ushuaia Autumn 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

It is fact that this forlorn archipelago was the last of the great discoveries in the West to be settled by Europeans, although it is uncertain who first saw the islands. The French colonized them, but the Spanish asserted territorial proximity rights from mainland south America. The British were there after the French moved out and the Argentinians did have a garrison there which the British displaced in 1833 and that was that as far as the Brits were concerned. The islanders consider themselves British to the core even though the Argentines have continued to claim the rights to the Islands since the Brtish moved in. "Las Malvinas fueron, son y serán Argentinas"- the Malvinas were, are and will be Argentinian is the catch cry that all Argentinians are raised with and that nationalism, pride and honour are still very strong in the claim and as the posters that appeared all over town proclaim - "la lucha no termino" -the struggle has not finished.

The Joys of Aerolineas Argentinas

Airline travel can provide a test of patience and involve long waits, but I think that Aerolineas Argentina must hold the record for flight delays, strikes and challenges in general . After returning to Ushuaia with Aerolineas I remember why I choose to fly with other airlines whenever it is possible!
The trip started in Quito, when LAN informed me there was no way my luggage could be sent through to Buenos Aires and would go to Santiago, from where I would have to collect it and recheck it. Fair enough, except that one’s luggage is outside, through immigration and I am inside in the Transit area. To exit and collect it means immigration, a reciprocal tax of $56 and an exit tax of $16 – not an option! Easy they say, go to the Aerolineas counter and get them to collect the luggage, except there is no Aerolineas desk and in the early hours of the morning it’s not easy to find anyone to help. Bless the lovely young lady in the Diners Club lounge, she spent some time on the telephone chasing down the luggage through Aerolineas. I wasn’t the only one, there was a couple from Guatemala with the same challenge. Finally, about 30 minutes before the flight departure we were handed our boarding passes with, we hoped, appropriate luggage collection tags. We were all very pleased to see our luggage on the carousel in Buenos Aires.
That was followed by an expensive Remis journey across Buenos Aires to the Domestic Terminal for the scheduled departure of my flight to Ushuaia. Might as well have walked! 8 hours later the flight departed Buenos Aires with a plane full of rather disgruntled travellers. All the flights on Saturday afternoon displayed the red Demorado – delayed notice, on the board and during the course of the day several were cancelled with no explanation. Several flights scheduled for later than mine departed for Ushuaia and still no explanation. Finally when we boarded they told us that seating was free – as the plane had been changed, which, as you can imagine caused even more problems as it was literally a case of first on best seats! I was lucky I was on early, after being squashed onto the bus last and so amongst the first off – so I had a front seat with all that lovely leg room. But couples were separated and there were lots of unhappy people.
We arrived in Uhuaia at 2.30 am, my luggage was almost last off and so I had a long wait for a taxi – in the cold, and after Galapagos it was cold! Finally made it back to my flat at 3.30 after 2 nights with little sleep.
Don’t think I will travel Aerolineas again in a hurry! I have to return to Buenos Aires with Aerolineas, but think I will ditch the flight to Santiago to connect for the return to Oz and buy a single with LAN – they are much more reliable!

The Dance of the Boobies

Galápagos March 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

What a wonderful spectacle and so very comical, with the large blue feet being an integral part of the performance. The feet are lifted one at a time in a solemn ritualised dance and resemble a clown with those extra large shoes. The pair then “skypoint”, which involves pointing their tails and beaks upwards and half opening their wings and honking or whistling. Honking for the female and whistling for the male. The whole performance can continue for quite a while and is wonderful to watch..
Watching them fishing is yet another fantastic spectacle. They cruise quite high above the sea and often commence their dive from as high as 10 – 15 metres. As they dive to accelerate they fold their wings and hit the water like an arrow or a kamikaze pilot

Ushuaia Summer 2007????

Ushuaia Summer 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

It's only March and already we have had a full day of snow in the town. The temperature didn't get above 1C and the snowflakes were seriously big! I am still new enough to a cold and snow environment to find it enchanting. I wonder how long that will last?
The surrounding mountains were covered with a layer of snow reaching down into town. But 2 days later the temperature was back in the teens and the snow has all but disappeared.
Summer in Ushuaia!

Extra Terrestrials?

Ushuaia Summer 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Just loved these clouds? as they hovered over the town for what seemed like a very long time. Were they landing, photographing or just checking?

! Un Desastre !

A total disaster, I am distraught, devastated, gutted and every other disaster word you can think of. My iPod, the original trusted one with ALL my music has crashed and I can't restore it. Here in Ushuaia at least. Whether it is possible eventually with the dock, I don't know, but here no, ¡ and I have another 7 months ! The computer recognises it on the USB cable, but won't restore it without using the Firewire cable and of course using the firewire cable the computer doesn't recognise it. I think I am going to cry - seriously cry. It is my constant companion on my walks to the school. I am blessed and thank all there is that I still have most of the music on my computer - the rest is scattered all over OZ - will be tracking down those CD's when I get back. Technology is great until it fails. I have just bought some DVDs to back up all the photos and the music I have on the computer, as it has been chucking some pretty interesting turns lately.
I am going to go off and cry now, excuse me.

¡Un Beso!

Everyone, yes absolutely everyone here in Argentina greets each other with un beso o un besito, such a lovely custom, but not one we westerners are always all that comfortable with. Today I went to the dentist with a serious crown problem and the first thing the dentist does is darme un beso, a kiss on the cheek. Now my dentist in Oz and I are on cheek kissing terms, but we have known each other for years, but here in Argentina, perfect strangers, on introduction exchange , besos, right cheek to right cheek. And then again on every meeting and departure. And that includes guy to guy. I have seen a few western guys a little spooked by that one! It's lovely, it means you get to actually have contact with other people on a very regular basis, so different to our "no touch society", that is getting worse not better.
And if you are not in actual physical contact other forms of contact also include un beso: via the telephone, email or mail. ¡Just delightful!

Un beso Barb

¿A New Business?

Ushuaia 2007
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

I have decided I am not going to earn a fortune, or even pay my way with English Conversation classes, there seems to be a slight problem with commitment, and I am not surprised with the hours everyone works. But that's ok I can live with that. So have started a new business - las bufandas or scarves. They only take me about an hour or so and don't need needles - just my hands - very easy, and all the great yarns are coming into the shops now and even better, are cheap- so work has commenced. Don't expect to make my fortune at this either, but it will keep me out of trouble.

Estoy en el Cielo (in heaven)

El Bambú Comida Vegetariana Ushuaia
Originally uploaded by agypsy.

Finally it's all in place and not only can I buy take away vegetarian delights, but also Tofu to cook at home. I am in heaven. The vegetarian food is wonderful, but I don't have a microwave and it doesn't reheat well. so now I have the best of both worlds. Who would have thought it in Ushuaia? Gracias a dios. Again I am Blessed.